Suits you sir: finding a good tailor in Tokyo

Summary

After reading the excellent "Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion by Alan Flusser, I decided it was time cast aside the Aoki and Aoyama off-the-rack jobs, and update my style with a visit to the local tailor. But where to start? After checking out some recommendations on-line, I decided on "Azabu Tailor".

**Parking depends on branch**Tokyo, Nagoya, Kyoto**For Dad**Opening hours depend on Shop, Kanda branch: 10am-8pm, open all day except Thursday**


Website

Azabu Tailor (Japanese only)

Experience

This was actually the first time for me to visit a tailor, but from what I imagine the experience to be like Azabu seems to offer all of the standard fare. I was looking to get away from the mass produced Aoki and Aoyama style experience, so it was reassuring to find the Kanda branch of Azabu Tailors to be located in a small dingy office building on the 3rd floor away on some side street. This gives the place the same sort of exclusive feeling you get from your other favorite little hideouts found in the nooks and crannies of Tokyo.

The store had exactly the kind of atmosphere I was searching for: A solid tailor dealing in traditional, conservative style while also being sufficiently in tune with modern tastes to avoid looking old fashioned. This was confirmed by the blend of classic paraphernalia adorning the perimeter of the shop, while modern popular music playing in the background suggested that timeless style was being delivered with a modern twist to those who desire it. Also reassuring, for me anyway, was extracts from "Dressing the Man" being displayed on the wall of the shop.

The sale begins with a consultation. Coffee is served as you sit down at a private table and discuss the kind of look you are aiming to achieve with the suit. The selection process begins with color, fabric and pattern. You are free to leaf through a large selection of sample books, with fabric from Japan and the UK being the main stock. The price of the suit is determined mainly by the fabric you select, such that, barring any extras you may opt of later in the sale, you know the price of the finished product based on the quoted price of the fabric. For example, the range starts from just under 40,000JPY for Japanese fabric, on to 50,000-60,000JPY for British wool, going up to 100,000JPY and beyond.

I took the most time with this part of the selection. The salesman was patient and never once rushed my decision. I took photographs of the fabric and took those home for comparison. Later, as I narrowed down the choice, the salesman cut pieces of fabric for me so I could take them home and think the decision over.

After selecting the fabric, you move on to choosing the overall style of the suit. The choice seemed to be between English and Classic Italian. The choice boils down to 2 vs 3 button, style of shoulder, number of vents on the back of the suit, number of pleats in the trousers, angle of both trouser and suit pocket, number and style of buttons on the sleeve etc. There really is no limit to the level you can go into at this point!

After deciding on the style, you move on the the fitting. The salesman had me trying on a variety of trousers and Jackets, and I was able to state preference for the tightness and comfort level of the suit as well as the more common sleeve and trouser length.

The only point of contention I had with the salesman was over sleeve length: I like to show at least an inch of shirt cuff, but I believe the tendency in Japan is to wear the Jacket sleeve too long. We managed to reach a compromise on the agreement that I could have the sleeve adjusted to be shorter in the event I though it was too long at the final fitting.

After the measurements, you have the option to choose from a wide variety of "extras". For an extra 1000-3000JPY you can opt for the "surgeons cuff", full stitching, patterned lining, "Maru Daiba" (A kind of reinforcement of the jacket's inside pocket), sweat guard and several others.

Once this stage is completed, you are done, and all that is left is payment. The suit is ready after around 3 weeks from this point.

Cost

Finished suits start at 36,750JPY for Japanese fabric and from 57,750JPY for imported fabrics, going all the way up to 100,000JPY and beyond.

Extras range from 1000JPY-3000JPY and there are around 10 to choose from meaning an extra 20,000-30,000JPY tops depending on your preferences.

Rating

A very satisfactory shopping experience. I eagerly await the finished suit, and will update this upon arrival.

Pros: Knowledgeable staff, great atmosphere, great range of fabrics and options.

Cons: English language support not guaranteed. Three week wait till the suit is ready.


Rating: 9/10